If you ever find yourself wandering the streets of Bilbao, or any other street of Bizkaia, there’s one thing you have to try before you leave: the bollo de mantequilla. It might look like a simple sweet bun from the bakery window, but oh, my friend—this little beauty is a bite of pure Basque happiness.
The name literally means “butter bun,” and that’s pretty much what it is. But don’t let the simplicity fool you. The magic of the bollo de mantequilla is all about balance: the bread is fluffy but rich, the filling sweet but not too heavy, and when it’s fresh out of the oven, it just melts in your mouth. It’s the kind of pastry that makes you close your eyes for a second and think, “Okay, this is what happiness tastes like.”
A Bit of History
The story of the bollo de mantequilla goes way back, around the early 19th century, two Swiss cousins—Bernardo Pedro Franconi and Francesco Matossi—moved to Bilbao and opened a pastry shop in the Casco Viejo (Old Town).
They brought with them the idea of “suizos de leche” (milk buns), common in Switzerland. Over time, Bilbao’s pastry scene started to twist that recipe: what if you injected a rich butter cream inside? Voilà — the original bollo de mantequilla was born.
Their first shop was on Calle Correo no. 2, and by about 1830 they had expanded into a café that opened onto Plaza Nueva. Their pastries became a hit. By the 1870s, the Franconi & Matossi brand had sprouted cafés in other cities (Burgos, Santander, Madrid, etc.). Over time, many local bakers, even French, Swiss, and Italian ones working in Bilbao, adopted and adapted the butter-bun concept.
Where to taste the best Bollos de mantequilla
So, where can you find the best ones? Bilbao locals will argue endlessly about that (seriously, you could start a small war over it), but a few names keep coming up. Arrese, right in the heart of the city, is probably the most famous. They’ve been baking them since 1852, and walking into that shop feels like stepping into pastry heaven. Martina de Zuricalday, being one of the oldest pastry establishments in the Basque Country, is also an outstanding place. Another local favorite is Don Manuel, a little more modern but equally delicious. Buns from La Suiza are also very good. If you find yourself near the Casco Viejo (the old town), just follow your nose—many of the small bakeries there make their own versions, often with slightly different textures or fillings.
Outside of Bilbao, in many of the towns of Bizkaia, you can also find excellent Bollos de Mantequilla. In fact, some people say that best ones in the world are not made in Bilbao, but in a small pattiserie of Mungia: Leku Ona. You’ll have to try them and decide by yourself!
Final thoughts and recommendations
The bollo de mantequilla is a perfect example of what makes Basque food culture so special—it’s rooted in tradition, made with love, and all about enjoying the simple things. So next time you’re in Bilbao, forget fancy desserts for a moment. Get yourself a bollo de mantequilla, take a bite, and thank me later.